Restaurant Review: Cosmo's Italian

Slight in stature, and sparing with words Cosmo is my new crush. With snowy white hair and thick, dark-framed glasses this man has captured my heart through his crisp, fresh breads, homemade mozzarella and a seductive puttanesca sauce. Cosmo is quick to relinquish his command at the oven to come make suggestions to the beleaguered diner. There are other cooks in house, and while I am not entirely sure who is responsible for what dish, Cosmo is the one kneading boules and twirling pizza crusts, standing on tiptoe peering into the broiling hot pizza oven to see if the lasagna is bubbling and the bread browned. The soups -- from scratch and good, I always hit mine with a wee bit of salt. The house salad is nice with a vivacious vinaigrette (all right it’s not really a food term but who can resist alliteration now and again?). My personal salad favorite is the caprese, which was delicious with the aforementioned mozzarella, great olive oil, balsamic vinegar and fat basil leaves. It was a good surprise having this salad be so tasty considering the kind of garbage tomatoes that are available right now. Chicken Parmesan is scrumptious-the chicken well flavored and juicy the marinara sauce tart and garlicky. Calzones and strombolis are ridiculously inexpensive and a steal considering the amount of work the Cosmo’s kitchen puts into them! Obviously the pizza is great when you have homemade sauce, crust and cheese, so I will leave you to order your favorite pizza combo -- the choices are virtually infinite. All of the pastas are good. There are multiple sauces to from which to choose. The STUFFED PEPPERS, oh, yes -- I love them. (I will say that on my first visit they were ice cold in the middle, however, I went right after they opened and the amount of filling in the peppers is amazing so... we will attribute that small glitch to opening jitters.) Cosmo’s is a fun place to go for grown ups and kids. It’s also great for a leisurely lunch or dinner, this is good food and it can’t be rushed nor should you be rushed while eating it. The atmosphere is casual and prices are moderate. AND, my personal soapbox/joy, it’s family owned. YAY! Cosmo’s 4107-F Oleander Drive Wilmington, NC (910) 313-6611 http://www.cosmosnypizza.com M-Sat 11a.m. to 9 p.m. Sun 11a.m. to ?
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